Ireland: Glenveagh Castle and the Giant's Causeway

Having explored the west coast of Ireland, we next headed to the north.

 

We made a quick stop to visit the grave of W. B. Yeats.

 

The kids were just happy to stretch their legs and get some wiggles out, but I loved reading this poem to them: 

The Cloths of Heaven

Had I the heaven's embroidered cloths,
Enwrought with golden and silver light,
The blue and the dim and the dark cloths
Of night and light and the half-light;
I would spread the cloths under your feet:
But I, being poor, have only my dreams;
I have spread my dreams under your feet;
Tread softly because you tread on my dreams.

We arrived in Donegal county at Glenveagh Castle.  Built in  the 1870s, it isn't really that old, and it is more of a mansion than a castle.  The location is super remote, and then you arrive at this beautiful lake.

 

We took a shuttle to the castle, and were given a time for a tour.

 

In the meantime, we explored the grounds and gardens.

 

Ohhhh, I just love these gardens!

 

The flowers and vegetables planted together and it was all just beautiful. The interior of the castle was very richly appointed as well and we were glad we made the trip to see it. After a good night's sleep, our next place to see was the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland. The entry to Northern Ireland was uneventful, with the main differences being that the roads were suddenly much, much nicer, and the currency changed from Euros to British Pounds.

 

The Giant's Causeway is another UNESCO World Heritage Site.  (We like those a lot, can you tell?) The unique hexagonal rocks were formed when the lava from a volcanic eruption cooled.  Then over time, sections of the rock were pushed up or eroded down creating this awesome place to climb around.

 

We bought two storybooks early in our trip- one with short stories about leprechauns and the other with Irish legends.  I read them to the kiddos a bit each day on our drives. The legend of the Giant's Causeway goes like this: 

The Irish giant Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn MacCool), from the Fenian Cycle of Gaelic mythology, was challenged to a fight by the Scottish giant Benandonner. Fionn accepted the challenge and built the causeway across the North Channel so that the two giants could meet. In one version of the story, Fionn defeats Benandonner. In another, Fionn hides from Benandonner when he realises that his foe is much bigger than he. Fionn's wife, Oonagh, disguises Fionn as a baby and tucks him in a cradle. When Benandonner sees the size of the 'baby', he reckons that its father, Fionn, must be a giant among giants. He flees back to Scotland in fright, destroying the causeway behind him so that Fionn could not follow. Across the sea, there are identical basalt columns (a part of the same ancient lava flow) at Fingal's Cave on the Scottish isle of Staffa, and it is possible that the story was influenced by this. (This version is from Wikipedia.)

 

"The Pipe Organ"

 

We spent a lot of time enjoying the causeway down by the ocean and then hiked up the nearby hill to take in the view from above.

 

It was a long walk, but the kids enjoyed this place a lot.

 

SO cool!

 

I took a lot of pictures of rocks, y'all.

 

Just a few more... I promise.

 

The kids really loved hopping from stone to stone.

 

And so did the Daddy-o.

 

We really like taking family photos on the edge of cliffs.

 

After some lunch and shopping at the visitor's center (Irish stew, scones, yumminess,) we drove to the Glens of Antrim.

 

 We got out and walked around a bit, but it was buggy and we were tired, so we decided to call it a day and head back to our lodgings.

 

This is where we stayed in Northern Ireland.  It is a hostel called the Slemish Barn in Ballymena. We had a private family room with bathroom and the shared spaces were very comfy. The second evening we were here, the local fiddlers association was being recorded in the living room by the BBC for a program about Irish music and stories.  We weren't able to be in where they were recording, but it was a neat opportunity to sit in the lobby with the kids, in their jammies, and listen to some great music.

Ireland: Ennis, Cliffs of Moher, and the Burren

We left Dingle to head for the Cliffs of Moher, but on the way stopped for lunch in Ennis and saw the Friary there.

 

Constructed in 1242, the church is partially in ruins, but houses some beautiful carvings that depict scenes from the crucifixion and resurrection of Christ.

 

I found these beautiful sculptures in the garden as well. And then we had lunch at a sandwich place called O'Brien's.  It is a chain, similar to Panera kinda.

 

Then on to the Cliffs of Moher! 

These are the Cliffs of Insanity in the Princess Bride movie. If you are wondering why everyone is squinting or covering their eyes in this photo it is because it was VERY windy up there. The path is dirt, which meant that dust was flying into our faces whenever we were facing into the wind. So, our children were walking along a cliff edge, in the wind, with their eyes closed.  No bueno. Thankfully, there was a low wall that we could keep the kids behind most of the walk, and we just brought them closer to the edge for photos and views a few times, and as you can see, we held onto them tightly.

 

It is fantastically beautiful there though.

 

We walked out along this side to about the third point you can see and then decided to turn back toward the car to continue on our way.

 

Along with the Cliffs of Moher, the Burren is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We drove through and watched the scenery become more and more barren until it was almost all rocks, like this. There is a geological explanation for this, but it is beyond me to explain it.  The kids loved running around this natural maze on the ground.

  

We also took time to admire the Poulnabrone portal tomb located here in the Burren. It dates from the Neolithic period between 4000 and 3000 BC. This would have been a tough landscape to make a living in, for sure.

 

Then we finally arrived at one of our most unique lodgings- the CrannOg EcoFarm. I am our travel agent, and I do try to keep it interesting and look for different types of accommodations.  And this one was definitely different! We had a sort of cabin to ourselves and it was clean and cosy. The bathrooms were in the adjacent building and had composting toilets and solar heated showers which were shared with the other people living at and/or camping on the farm grounds.  The gardens, ponds, and grounds were really well cared for and it was quite educational for all of us actually.  There is a part of me that just LOVES places like this, though I confess we went to McDonald's for breakfast the next morning and all enjoyed flushing the toilets there!

 

That day was our only completely rainy day in Ireland.  We had originally planned to take a ferry to the island of Inishmoor and explore for the day.  But with the rain, and knowing that we would be out in it all day, we cancelled that plan and found a mall in Galway where we restocked our snack supply and took the kids to an indoor bounce house type place.  It was a welcome change of pace at the halfway point of our trip.

Ireland: Rock of Cashel and Dingle Peninsula

After we left Dublin, we headed west across the country toward Dingle.

 

We made a pit stop part way across the country to visit the Rock of Cashel. This is supposed to be the location where St. Patrick baptized the King of Munster in the 5th Century. The cathedral there is in ruins, but very beautiful.

 

Some day Rob will be able to take a selfie and smile at the same time.  :)

 

There are still a few spots available in the cemetery... but only for people who had their names put on a waiting list in 1930 and are still living. Craziness.

 

We then had planned to drive through Kilarney National Park and see some waterfalls, but due to a charity bike ride, we were diverted (detoured) through the Black Valley.  This place was crazy.  A one lane road with two way traffic, switch backs, blind hills, and sheer drop offs.  It was a nail biter. This was the last area in Ireland to get electricity... in the 1970s.

 

Rob did really well at driving on the left side of the road while sitting on the right side of the car and shifting with his left hand. I had trouble just remembering my left from my right all week.

  

The place we stayed in Dingle was actually in Ballyferitter at a B&B.  We basically had an apartment here with a full kitchen, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a sitting room.  Our host stocked the fridge before we arrived and left us a rhubarb pie for our tea time.

 

The house is old with wavy glass in the windows and some of the issues that are normal for old houses, (we couldn't open some of the windows, and the house felt damp,) but the views were wonderful, the black cat outside was very tolerant of Amelie's "affection," and our host was very accommodating.

 

We spent a day exploring the Dingle Peninsula.  First stop was the Great Blasket Center where we learned what life was like on those islands in the background.  They are no longer inhabited, though you can take a ferry over to explore.

 

We chose to stay on the mainland and go for a hike along the coast. 

 

I guess there used to be a stone pier here or something.  There were broken steps leading down to the water's edge. We held tightly to the kiddos a lot in Ireland. We even got to climb over some stills through the sheep pastures before eventually deciding that our only options were to take a much longer hike than we wanted, or to turn back the way we came.  We chose to turn back when we reached a field where the grass was up to my knees (or Jacob's waist.)

 

Then we had to take a break to build some stone cairns.

 

Excellent project for Little Bears.

 

After our hike we headed into Dingle town for lunch, but first stopped to see these Beehive huts. While they may date back to as early as the 8th century, most are believed to be from the 12th century or later.  But nobody knows for sure.

 

In Dingle we visited this statue of Fungi the Dolphin. (There is actually a dolphin that lives in the harbor and is the town mascot, but we did not catch sight of him.) We also ate lunch in a nice Pub while the Gaelic Football match between Kerry and Cork, or as the sign said, "Us vs. Them" was on the television and the place was packed. I think Kerry did win, though we left at the half. Also, as a side note, all of our kids like fish and chips.

 

Before returning to our B&B we took the kids to a beach called Ryan's Daughter.  I guess there is a movie by this name that was filmed here, but we haven't seen it.  It was only in the 60s out, but our kids managed to get soaking wet and sandy anyway so we went "home," got cleaned up, and then spent some time at a playground and grabbed some takeout to go with our Irish soda bread and rhubarb pie for dinner.

Ireland: Getting there and Dublin

 

Last week we packed up for an epic trip to Ireland.  This is everything that we took (plus four car seats, not pictured) for our family of six for a nine day adventure road tripping around the country.  Plus Northern Ireland. We planned to rent a car and stay at 5 different locations. But first we had to get there.

 

Last time we lived in Germany, we usually took taxis to the airport. This time, we thought we would try to be more German about it and take the train.  We live just under a mile from our closest train station and it was a HOT walk, but Jacob loved being on the train.  Once we got to the airport it was a long haul to our departure gate and we stopped and ate dinner at the airport McDonald's restaurant- which has a huge play area- before boarding our two hour flight to Dublin.

 

We arrived in Dublin around 11 pm.  (This is not a photo from that moment!) We picked up our rental car and loaded everyone up and drove to the McGovern's lovely home in the suburbs where we arrived around midnight. It was a long night. I booked all of our accommodations through airbnb.com and at this first place we stayed for two nights near Dublin we had two bedrooms in a family home with an older couple. Their own four children are grown and moved out and they enjoy welcoming people into their home. It was like staying with the Irish relatives that we don't have.

 

The next morning we headed into downtown Dublin. First stop was Dublin Castle. Rob and I both read a historical fiction novel before this trip called 1921 by Morgan Llywelyn which really gave us a better understanding of the people and places involved in the Irish fight for independence as well as the following Civil War. I won't subject you all to a lengthy history lesson on every spot we visited, but will just mention that Dublin Castle was a highly contested position of power.  The history goes way back before then though with a castle structure on this site since the 1200s and most of the current structure dating from the 1700s.

 

Our Charlotte with Queen Charlotte.

 

After Dublin Castle, we walked over to Trinity College. Trinity College was founded in 1592. It is a beautiful campus and we took a brief tour around with a post-grad student.  He was very witty and funny.  The vegetarian son of a pig farmer, he is doing post-grad work in book preservation... and he looks like Harry Potter. Anyway, "Harry" shared stories from the University's past and present (including the hijinks of former student Bram Stoker.)

 

At the end of tour we went inside the beautiful "Old Library" at Trinity and saw the Book of Kells along with the rest of their gorgeous collection. The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript of the Gospels created by monks between the 6th and 9th century.  It is an OLD book.  But is also an incredibly detailed, beautifully illustrated book.  The kids were a bit bored, but I liked it.

 

After that we walked along O'Connell street past the General Post Office. This is not just any post office.  During the Easter Rising of 1916, the GPO served as the headquarters of the rebellion's leaders.  It was badly damaged in the fighting but later repaired by the Irish Free State government. We passed by and ate lunch in a pub around the corner. 

Here we had a memorable conversation with a somewhat drunk, elderly man named Kris Kringle. His speech was a little slurred as he asked us, "Four kids? Don't you have a television?!?" We smiled and laughed along with him and then he told us, "We didn't have a television either, so we had ten kids!" We were asked this same television questions a few more times throughout our trip so I finally asked someone about it.  She told me that not only were televisions expensive to buy in Ireland 30-40 years ago, but in Ireland you also have to purchase a license to own a TV. This also costs money and many couples starting out can't afford to have a television.  Ireland has one of the highest birth rates in Europe.

 

Just strolling through Dublin.

(Looking for ice cream actually.)

 

We next took a drive out to Phoenix Park and lounged by the World War I monument there.  It was cool but sunny out... much better than the 100 degree day Germany was enjoying at the same time. After this we grabbed a pizza to go and went and found a playground to picnic at for some down time.

 

The next morning we drove over to Kilmainham Gaol. Built in 1796, this prison was part of a reform movement that included innovations like separating the prisoners (rather than men, women, and children all together,) and providing light to the cells. By modern standards, it was still a very grisly place and the youngest prisoner recorded to be held there (for petty theft) was a seven year old boy.

 

The real significance of Kilmainham Gaol to the Irish though, is the fact that nearly every leader of the Irish revolution was held here at some point in time.  Their names are written on plaques above their former cells.  Some were put to death by firing squad in the stonebreaker's yard.

 

One touching story from the revolution is of Grace Gifford and Joseph Plunkett. Grace was an artist and was engaged to marry Joseph when he was arrested after the 1916 Uprising. When she learned he was to be executed, she bought a ring and requested the prison chaplain to wed them.  Joseph was killed just a few hours later. During the Civil War that followed, Grace aligned with the anti-treaty IRA and was imprisoned at Kilmainham by the Irish Free State government. She painted this Madonna with Child inside her cell.  She was released when the Civil War ended in 1923. She then supported herself as an artist and illustrator until her death in 1955 when she was buried with full military honors. Ireland is a politically complicated place.  

After our visit to the prison, we headed west from Dublin to our next destination.

Color Run- Toby's First 5k

This morning Toby and I ran the Color Run on base. This was Toby's first 5k and he did awesome! We had been training the past few weeks by playing tag in the park near our house a few evenings a week. That was Toby's idea, and it was a really fun way to prepare for a race. (Way more fun than anything I would have come up with.) We walked, jogged, and ran parts of it and finished in 45 minutes.

 

We arrived at 7 am.  Registered, picked up our race shirts, ate some breakfast, and then waited in the gym for the start time.  It was kinda pouring rain outside.

 

Wearing his first splashes of color.

 

Halfway point... I think the rain had just about stopped at this point.

 

And after the finish line!

As soon as Toby saw the finish line he broke into a dead sprint and finished a bit ahead of me, that stinker! I am so excited to have a running buddy anyway though... even if he did make me eat his dust. We saw a lot of friends there that cheered him on as he approached the finish line and he loved that too.  The Color Run was a great first race I think.  He is already asking when our next race will be and is going to try to talk Charlotte into doing it with us.