We saw so much on our day in Jerusalem that this is going to be a long post! Also, during the night before Jacob was up sick which meant that he was a very sad, tired Bear and we dragged him along anyway because, seriously, when is he going to get to go to Jerusalem again?
We started the Saturday morning with church services at the BYU Jerusalem Center for Near Eastern Studies. I wasn't supposed to take a photo in the chapel, but I didn't realize that until a while after I had already discreetly taken this one. The chapel is full of natural light and looks out over the old city of Jerusalem, it is a really striking and awe-inspiring sight. We sat in the back row with the organ directly behind us and let's just say the organist really knew her stuff. It was a memorable meeting.
The Center opened in 1988 after many years of negotiations with the local government and amid protests. Eventually, the building was completed, though with a commitment to respect the laws of the land and not to proselyte to the local people.
It currently costs $10,800 for a student to study one semester here and they must apply, be interviewed, and meet minimum GPA requirements. Who knows? Maybe one of our kids will come back here someday.
After church we enjoyed the view from Mt. Scopus and the Mount of Olives for a few minutes before driving down to explore the Old City up close.
I love this guy.
I can't imagine anyone I'd rather be on an adventure with.
We drove two cars this day and Charlotte was thrilled to get to spend the day with Faith. These two were good friends before Faith moved to Israel, and they hope to see each other again in Utah.
The streets were narrow and crowded and we were really, really glad to have Doug guide us around. It was totally low stress to just follow along and not have to manage a map or plan a route.
Our first stop was the traditional site of the Last Supper. (I took this photo up high like this because the room was full of people.) This place is called the Cenacle, or upper room, above David's Tomb and is believed to have been the place where Christ held the Last Supper with his 12 disciples and instituted the Sacrament.
This may not be the place, and it certainly didn't look like this at that time if it is the place. The rib vaulted ceiling dates from the 1100s. At any rate, it was interesting to visit and discuss the events of the last days of the Savior's life as we moved through Jerusalem.
I asked Rob what this stained glass above the doorway said in Arabic. He said it was "There is no God but God." That is the beginning of the Muslim shahada, or five pillars of Islam. I love the sentiment that whatever or however you believe in God, we are worshiping the same creator.
Outside we walked up to the roof to take in some views.
Across the valley we could just see the top of the golden Dome of the Rock and above and to the right of that the BYU Jerusalem Center in the distance.
We could also see this part of the Mount of Olives that is a cemetery. It has been a Jewish cemetery for over 3,000 years and holds about 150,000 graves. So, why? Why do so many Jews want to be buried there? It has to do with a Jewish tradition (Zechariah 14:4) that when the Messiah comes, the resurrection of the dead will begin there.
We then walked back down the stairs to King David's Tomb. No photos were allowed inside, but we went in- the men to one side and the women to the other, with our heads covered- to visit this traditional site. The majority of historians and archeologists do not believe this to be the actual site of King David's burial, but it is an official synagogue.
From here we walked on, snacking on chocolate covered dates that were pretty yummy.
We passed by this excavated section about one story below us. This would have been the street level of the city 2,000 years ago.
Amelie also had a friend along this day. She and Addie thought these golden lions were super cool. "Nice kitties."
Next we arrived at the Temple Mount.
From here we could see the Dome of the Rock and the Western Wall. The Dome of the Rock is a significant location to Muslims and Jews. Jews believe the foundation stone to be the place where God created Adam and also the place where Abraham took Isaac to be sacrificed. Muslims believe that this is where Mohammad's night journey to heaven began and that this location is connected to the creation of the world. It's no wonder there is so much conflict over this area, though I wish so much that it could be diplomatically shared for all to enjoy.
We had to go through a security checkpoint to move closer to the wall than this, and as we waited to go through it began to rain hard and then hail. The brief storm only lasted a few minutes but left us quite wet.
The Western Wall, or Wailing Wall, is divided into sections for women and men to worship and pray separately. We could have gone up to the wall, but chose not to. Because there are entry restrictions to the Temple Mount, this is as close as Jews can get to what they see as the holiest place to worship. (Please forgive me if you are Jewish or Muslim and I am misunderstanding your faith, I'm doing my best to research before I post.) The site is not significant to our religion, and we felt it best not to disturb those praying.
Since we were all wet and a little chilly, we thought it would be a good time to stop for lunch. We found a restaurant with a table that could seat all 10 of us (11 with the baby,) and ordered some lunch. The pizza was interesting- the cheese seemed like Swiss or Gruyere but it was tasty.
The rest of the food we ordered was just okay, with super greasy french fries.
We also ordered all of the kids hot chocolate to help warm them up. This was the coolest day of our trip at just around 50 degrees. Poor Jacob was still feeling cruddy. He ate a bit of food, drank some water and his cocoa, and then fell asleep at the table. My poor Bear.
After lunch we walked around the side of the Temple Mount. The current structures date from the time of Herod some 2,000 years ago. According to Jewish tradition, this was also the location of Solomon's Temple some 3,000 years ago before it was destroyed by the Babylonians. And then Zerubbabel's Temple about 2,500 years ago. This area is also considered one of the most holy sites in Islam.
We continued around the outside of the Temple Mount and saw these tombs at the base of the Mount of Olives in the Kidron Valley. The one on the left is the Tomb of Benei Hezir and the one on the right is traditionally believed to be a monument for Zechariah. Both date from the first century AD, though there was never anyone buried at the Tomb of Zechariah.
As we came around the eastern side of the Temple Mount, we were able to see the Golden Gate. It is believed by Christians to be the gate that Jesus passed through on Palm Sunday while riding a donkey into Jerusalem, and by Jews to be the where the Messiah will enter one day yet to come. The gate has been sealed shut since the middle ages.
Across from the Golden Gate lies the Garden of Gethsemane. We walked around the path surrounding the garden, but there is a low fence to prevent people from trampling the plants. Some of the olive trees here are among the oldest known trees on Earth and may be from roots even older as olive trees can re-sprout from their roots. Christians believe that this is the location where Jesus performed the Atonement and where he was betrayed by Judas. Though tradition pinpoints this location, it is impossible to know that for sure. Either way, it was a lovely place for reflection.
There is a Roman Catholic church adjacent to the garden called the Church of All Nations, or Basilica of the Agony. It was built in the 1920s on the foundations of earlier churches dating back to the 12th century. In the basement is the bedrock where Catholics believe Jesus prayed.
The interior is fairly dark and is supposed to evoke the night sky and the anguish of the Atonement. It was definitely a little different than what we are used to.
Whether here or somewhere else, we personally believe that Jesus Christ atoned for our sins and opened the way for all people to return to God and receive eternal life. That fills us with hope, joy, and gratitude.
From here we walked past the traditional Tomb of the Virgin Mary, and uphill toward the Old City center.
We did stop in the nearby Birthplace of the Virgin Mary.
Again, who knows? But according to apocryphal writings, Mary's parents were named Anne and Joachim. We know from the Bible that she was the cousin of Elizabeth (mother of John the Baptist) and of the House of David, but that is about it. At any rate, it was pretty cool to walk down these tight stairways into a cave-like home with narrow passages and to imagine living there. Or even to imagine the boy Jesus coming to visit his grandparents in a home like this.
Though it would have been pretty dark, it would have been cool in the oppressive Summer heat and warm in the cool Winter nights. Pretty interesting.
We next stopped in this location which Doug told us had to do with Pontius Pilate, and the Stations of the Cross, but to be completely honest, I don't remember. There was a tour group milling around, and I lost sight of Jake for a few minutes, and that is all I took away from this spot. (It had been a pretty long day by this point.)
We next walked up through the Muslim quarter toward the Damascus Gate. This area was very crowded and full of smells of spices, and sounds of music, and people selling things. It was very sensory overload.
The Damascus Gate was named such because it heads in the direction toward Syria. The current gate was built in 1537 under Suleiman the Magnificent. Near here we found a vendor selling soccer balls and Jacob got his Palestine soccer ball for his collection, which was the only thing he wanted and made his day.
Our next stop was Skull Hill. This location is one possibility for the crucifixion of Christ, which the scriptures say took place at Golgotha (place of the skull.) Another name, Calvary, is Anglicized from the Latin, and means the same thing.
Very near to here, is this beautiful garden containing a tomb dating from the 7th-8th century BC. This a possible location for the burial and Resurrection of Jesus Christ. Another possible option is at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
Whether "the place" or not, this garden and tomb are definitely evocative and tranquil. Even with lots of people lined up to peek inside. The girls, Toby, and I took a look inside at the small empty tomb (no photos allowed) and reflected on the miracle of the Resurrection. Rob and Jake rested in the garden and enjoyed a peaceful moment.
It was a really lovely spot for reflection and we enjoyed hearing a tour group (possibly American Baptists?) singing hymns nearby.
We decided to skip the Church of the Holy Sepulchre since we felt we had reached the end of Jesus' mortal ministry at the Garden Tomb, and instead turned for home. In other words, we were toast. We walked back through the Muslim quarter toward our cars and stopped to purchase souvenirs along the way.
Some sesame bread for our last few shekels and we were ready to roll.
The next morning Doug drove us back to the airport and we made our way home to Germany. It was a really short and eventful trip! If we'd had more time we may have made the drive up to Galilee to visit the sights there, but as it was, we were very happy with everything we got to see and do. And again, we couldn't have done it without the help of our friends and their gracious hosting and guiding.
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